Lay the pattern on the neteen in such a way as to bring the bias where
the greatest amount of roll is to be, then cut making the same
allowances as if cut from buckram. This material should be used double
to secure the best results. Cut one thickness first and pin this on
another piece in such a way that the warp thread of one piece will lie
parallel to the woof thread of the other. Cut the two pieces the same
size and before removing the pins baste closely all over the brim with
fine thread, making one inch stitches. Fine thread should be used for
this as a coarse thread might show through the covering.
To join the seam in the back—
Insert one thickness between the other two ends, and backstitch closely.
This method ought to make a fairly smooth seam. Cover the seam with a
strip of crinoline to smooth it up.
To sew edge wire on neteen—
It is difficult to sew edge wire on neteen. A good result is obtained,
however, by sewing the wire directly on the edge or by covering the edge
first with crinoline and sewing the wire on it. Great care must be taken
in handling neteen to preserve the shape, as it is very easily stretched
and pulled out of shape while sewing on the edge wire. The same method
is used in covering a neteen frame as with the buckram frame. The
velvet, if velvet is used, can be glued on, but the material is so
porous that it is not very satisfactory. Neteen and crinoline make
excellent foundations for braid hats, as these materials are light in
weight, soft, and pliable. They are also very satisfactory for
children's hats.