A hat lining should receive the same careful consideration and workmanship as the outside of the hat. From the milliner's point of view it is an advertisement, the place where we find the designer's name. A well-fitted lining, whether of somber or gay colored silk, enhances the value of a hat. Sometimes we find a tiny sachet rosebud sewed to the lining, or a little lace-trimmed pocket for the veil.

There are three popular kinds of linings—

• Plain lining
• French lining
• Tailored lining

Plain lining—

This should be made of a bias strip of material cut the length of the headsize wire, plus one inch for seam. The width should be the same as the crown height plus two and one-half inches.

SHOWING METHOD OF COVERING CROWN WITH TWO-INCH WIDE BIAS SATIN. CORD SEWED IN ONE EDGE; THE OTHER EDGE IS GATHERED AND PULLED UP TO FIT CROWN

Fold one end over one-half inch and pin to the[65] back of the hat; fold the edge of the material down one-quarter of an inch around the inside of the crown as close as possible to the edge without showing when the hat is on the head. Pin in place all the way round and slipstitch the two ends together; then begin at the seam and slipstitch the lining in place. The method is to bring the needle from the underside of the lining through the edge of the fold, catch a few threads of material on the hat opposite this thread, and put the needle back through the fold at the same point; bring the needle through the fold one-half inch from the first stitch and proceed in this manner until the seam is reached. Turn the other raw edge down one-half inch to the wrong side and make a running stitch one-quarter inch from the folded edge in which a narrow ribbon should be run, and drawn down as much as necessary to make the lining fit the crown. A crown tip is used with this lining, which is made of a piece of silk four inches square, sewed or glued to the inside of the crown top. On this piece the designer's name is usually found.